Paying tribute to decades of TUDOR watches on the wrists of US Navy divers, the new Pelagos FXD model is complete with fixed strap bars, a titanium case, a high performance Manufacture Calibre, and a unidirectional elapsed-time rotating bezel. It comes as the ultimate modern “Milsub”.

As early as the mid 1950s, TUDOR diving watches were being tested and evaluated by a number of outfits inside the US Navy, and in 1958 they were officially adopted by the Navy with the purpose of issuing them to divers operating in various units. The new TUDOR Pelagos FXD is the spiritual successor of those watches.

Representing a modern, high-performance and robust take on the famed “Milsub” (short for Military Submariner) of yesteryear, visually the new Pelagos FXD is most in line with a late 60s-era TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7016. Incorporating elements from the US military specifications, as well as details inspired by other generations of issued TUDORs, like pointed crown-guards typically found on early TUDOR Submariners, its names also hints at the background of the watch, with FXD referring to the incredibly robust FiXeD strap bars of the case.

TUDOR And The US Navy

Throughout the decades, TUDOR has supported the US Navy as a supplier of issued watches. In the 1965 “First Edition” of the Underwater Demolition Team Handbook, a TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner ref 7928 is pictured next to the “Diving Watch” paragraph. The handbook was an essential piece of literature for new operators as they studied UDT operational procedures.

Later, in 1973, the US Navy Diving manual lists the TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner references 7016 and 7021 as “navy-approved” diving watches.

In 1974, the National Stock Number system was introduced to track the supply system of the US Department of Defense. From 1978, under code 6645-01-068-1088, a supply officer could purchase and issue a TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner reference 9411, or later 76100, to an approved sailor or operator in need of a reliable Navy-approved dive watch. This specific supply catalog entry was only retired in 2004.

Watches issued to members of the military are typically engraved with specific inventory codes, but the US Navy-issued TUDOR watches didn’t follow this pattern. Instead, the issued watches were either sterile, or marked at the unit level, with many different coding typologies, most of which were used for inventory purposes. Since many of these watches issued by the US Navy remain unmarked, it makes it quite difficult for watch scholars of today to determine to military provenance of a given TUDOR, even though official records indicate the very large quantities, in a number of references, were delivered over a span of multiple decades.

A Unique Set Of Specifications

Initially developed in conjunction with active duty combat swimmers, the Pelagos FXD case is based on a set of specifications that are as precise as they are demanding. For this reason, it includes functional features that are unique in the TUDOR collection, such as its fixed strap bars, which are directly machined into the main body of the 42mm titanium case for increased robustness and reliability. Shaped as an extension of the lugs, they are key to the models characteristic silhouette.

Another feature of this model is the ergonomic 60-notch rotating bezel. Unidirectional with a luminescent material-filled 60-minute-graduated ceramic insert, it corresponds to ISO standard 6425:2018 for divers’ watches.

A Fabric Strap in Pure Navy Style

Historically, the US Navy often had their divers fit their TUDOR watches with fabric straps. Typically one-piece nylon straps in either black or green, the two straps of the new TUDOR Pelagos FXD model are a nod to this military custom, with a twist.

A one-piece green fabric strap with red central thread and self-gripping fastening system comes as the flagship configuration, whilst an additional black embossed fabric-motif one-piece rubber strap brings a fresh subtle take on a classic look.

The one-piece fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which in 2010 became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its watches. Woven in France on 19^th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, the manufacturing quality, robustness and comfort of TUDOR fabric straps is unique.

The Manufacture Calibre MT5602

Driving the new TUDOR Pelagos FXD model is a Manufacture Calibre MT5602. Displaying the hours, minutes and seconds functions, it has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres: its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, whilst its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations.

Certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), the performance of the MT5602 Manufacture Calibres exceeds the standards set by this independent institute at -2 and +4 seconds' variation per day, tested on a fully assembled timepiece, and is in keeping with the TUDOR philosophy of quality, robustness and reliability.

The new TUDOR Pelagos FXD model also boast a "weekend-proof" 70-hour power reserve, enabling the wearer to take the watch off on Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind it. Even if you need a weekend away, your watch does not.

Visit Us To Discover First-Hand The TUDOR Pelagos FXD

At Brufords we are proud to be an Official TUDOR Retailer. Visit us online or at our showroom situated in The Beacon, Eastbourne where our team of TUDOR watch experts are on-hand to help you choose a watch to last a lifetime.

For more information, or to book an appointment, contact us HERE.