The Spirit Of A Tool Watch: Introducing The New TUDOR Ranger
The Spirit Of A Tool Watch: Introducing The New TUDOR Ranger
On 8th July 1952, the British North Greenland Expedition left for a scientific mission studying ice sheets in Greenland, equipped with the Oyster Prince model, TUDOR's first watch that was both automatic and waterproof. Alongside conducting in-depth glaciological and seismic surveys at the sites, TUDOR also asked them to gather performance data as the watches that would be worn under extreme conditions.
The mark the expeditions 70th anniversary, TUDOR presents the new TUDOR Ranger model, a tool watch celebrating the spirit of the daring adventure, complete with Manufacture Calibre MT5402, a 39-millimetre case and a clasp with rapid adjustment system.
The Ranger Saga
The history of the TUDOR Ranger name dates back much further than the Greenland Expedition of 1952. Although the watches used by the British scientists and sailors over the course of the mission never bore this inscription on their dials, subsequent Ranger models have perpetuated the concept of the expedition watch born at TUDOR during this time. That of a robust, practical, and affordable instrument.
Dating back to 1929, just three years after founder Hans Wilsdorf registered the "The TUDOR" trademark, the name "Ranger" was not used to indicate the models specifically, but instead to add an adventurous aspect to certain watches in the TUDOR collection. The aesthetics that we now recognise as the Ranger also didn't appear until the 1960s, with the addition of its large Arabic numerals, generously coated with luminescent materials at 3 (for models without the date), 6, 9 and 12 o'clock, alongside uniquely designed hands.
Over the course of its history, the TUDOR Ranger has been offered in a number of variations. With examples both with and without the date, with automatic or manual winding and initially with the TUDOR rose logo followed by the shield on its dial, in 1973 a version of the TUDOR Ranger was also made with an integrated bracelet under the name "Ranger II".
The Spirit Of A Tool Watch
Respecting the aesthetic stands established since its inception, especially with its dial, whilst incorporating new state-of-the-art-technical elements, in particular a high-performance Manufacture Calibre and a TUDOR "T-fit" clasp with rapid adjustment system, the new TUDOR Ranger models continue the tradition of the expedition watch, born with the Oyster Prince watches used during the British North Greenland Expedition.
To echo this functional heritage, the 39-millimetre case and the bracelet of the new TUDOR Ranger are satin-brushed, creating an overall matt finish, in the purest spirit of a "tool watch". Some elements, however, are polished to strengthen the lines of the case, including on the inner edge of the bezel.
As for the dial, an attentive eye will notice a detail of historic influence, hour markers painted in luminescent material. Beige in colour, they perfectly contrast with the grained, matt black dial and match the tone if the TUDOR shield logo and inscriptions. The arrow-shaped hands, rounded for the hour hands and angular for the seconds hands, are characteristic of TUDOR Ranger aesthetics, with a novel touch, the tops of the seconds hand in burgundy.
Manufacture Calibre MT5402
Designed to ensure longevity, reliability and precision, the TUDOR Ranger is equipped with a Manufacture Calibre MT5402 movement.
Maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point fixation, together with its non-magnetic silicone balance spring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5402 is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institution. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch between - 4 and +6 seconds in relation to the absolutely time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on between -2 and +4 seconds variation in its running when completely assembled.
Designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, the Manufacture Calibre MT5402 is also "weekend-proof", with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening, and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset the time.
Jacquard, Steel or Hybrid Bracelet
The fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which, in 2010, became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its products. Woven in France using a traditional method on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality and comfort on the wrist are unique.
For the Ranger, TUDOR chose an olive-green bracelet with two red stripes and one beige stripe woven by the craftsmen. Also available with a black rubber and fabric-like strap with beige top-stitching and folding clasp, the TUDOR Ranger is also offered with a stainless steel bracelet with TUDOR "T-fit" clasp equipped with a system for rapid length adjustment, Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical system, allows wearers of the TUDOR Ranger to carry out a fine, instant, adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm.
The British North Greenland Expedition represented a seminal moment for TUDOR and its tool watches. In fact, this was one of the very first long-term tests under real-world extreme conditions, implemented by the brand. Members of the expedition monitored variations in the precision of their Oyster Prince watches compared to the hourly signals emitted by the BBC, and recorded them in notebooks specifically provided for this purpose.
This approach to testing, termed "Trial of Destruction". where the watch is evaluated in the field by professional under extreme conditions, gave the theme of TUDOR's first large-scale advertising campaign in 1952. Such testing steered the development of a number of the brand's tool watches, with robustness at the heart of the TUDOR philosophy.
For more information, and to discover the TUDOR Ranger collection, visit us in-store at our The Beacon, Eastbourne showroom. To book an appointment, contact us by telephone on 01323 410264 or click HERE to be directed to our contact form.